Make subscriptions/listen refusable for hosts that cannot stream

## Motivation and Context

The documented Rails controller pattern builds a fresh transport per request and renders `body.first`,
but a modern client's `subscriptions/listen` made `handle_request` return the streaming `Proc` body,
so exactly the documented configuration answered every notification-stream request with a 500 - quietly,
since tool calls and listings kept working. Nothing gated the route: `serves_subscriptions_listen?` was
hardcoded `true` and consulted only by `Server#discover` for capability stripping,
and the modern path deliberately ignores `stateless:`.

`StreamableHTTPTransport.new` now accepts `serve_subscriptions_listen:` (default `true`, behavior unchanged).
When `false`, the transport skips the listen interception so the method falls through the dispatcher as
unimplemented - the spec's 404 with JSON-RPC `-32601`, in an Array body the controller pattern can render - and
`serves_subscriptions_listen?` reflects the setting, so `Server#discover` stops advertising the `listChanged`/`subscribe`
capability flags through its existing wiring and the advertisement agrees with the actual behavior.
The documented controller example passes the flag and explains why; refusing implicitly in `stateless:` mode
was rejected because a stateless transport mounted as a long-lived Rack app serves listen streams correctly
(listen delivery deliberately precedes the stateless notification guard).

On the default streaming side, the listen body is now a small streaming-body object rather than a bare `Proc`:
it still responds to `call` and deliberately not to `each` (Rack would otherwise classify it as enumerable
and break the streaming), while `first` raises an error naming `serve_subscriptions_listen: false`
and pointing at the transports documentation, so a host that buffers the body the documented way fails with
guidance instead of a bare `NoMethodError`.

Fixes #531.

## How Has This Been Tested?

With the issue's reproduction script (default: a streaming body whose `body.first` raises the guidance;
with the flag: 404, `application/json`, and an Array body whose first element is the `-32601` error),
new transport tests covering the refusal shape, the capability stripping on `server/discover`, and the guidance
raise with the body's streaming classification, the full suite, RuboCop, and the conformance suite, all green;
the docs build passes every internal link and anchor check.

## Breaking Changes

None. The keyword defaults to the current behavior; refusal is opt-in.

docs/_server/subscriptions.md

@@ -52,6 +52,9 @@ The first SSE event on the stream is the acknowledgement:
 ## Transport Support
 
 The stream is served on the Streamable HTTP modern path; stdio answers `-32601`.
+A host that cannot hold an SSE response open (such as the [Rails controller pattern](/server/transports/#rails-controller),
+which buffers the body) declines the method with `serve_subscriptions_listen: false`, answering `-32601` and dropping
+the `listChanged`/`subscribe` flags from discovery.
 
 ## Limits and Keepalives